Canadian Icewine: Quality and Diversity from Coast to Coast

I used to love Canadian Icewine and its less expensive, but often quite as tasty counterpart, the late harvest. And then, for some odd reason, I practically stopped having it.

Over the last few months, however, I drank icewines from Ontario, British Columbia, Québec and Nova Scotia. And baby, I’m back.

Those were fine, fine wines, with all the apricot, honey and floral aromas and flavors you’d want, the acidity needed to balance out the concentrated sweetness. What struck me the most, however, was the diversity of styles – a much greater range than I would have expected.

Let me give you an idea of this range of styles by giving tasting notes from West to East.

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Tasting Note: Creekside Estate Winery 2006 VQA Cabernet, Niagara Peninsula

On my short vacation on Manitoulin Island, last August, I took a minute to stop by the Gore Bay branch of the LCBO to grab some wine (and a bit of cider), and chanced upon a bottle of 2006 VQA Cabernet by Creekside Winery, which I’d heard much good about in the last few months.

Among other things, Creekside scored high in the most recent Canadian Wine Awards and was a finalist for Winery of the Year.

Of course, to get a full sense of what the winery is about,

Tasting note: Hernder Estate Wines 2000 Riesling VQA, Niagara Peninsula

Last night, I subjected my dinner guests to an experiment. Nothing cruel, I assure you. On the contrary.

You see, I’ve been a fan of Hernder rieslings for many years, and five years ago, I decided to try something. Judging from the balance and ripeness I tasted, I figured that they could keep for several years. So after a visit to the Hernder cellar, I put a bottle of their 2000 riesling (the regular cuvée, not even the reserve) in the cellar, and decided to wait. Until last night.

Boy, was I ever happy to have bided my time. The nose showed a bit of petrol and citrus fruit, right on opening, but after a few minutes, it blossomed into rich aromas of beeswax and honey, pastry and flower petals. On tasting, a bit of residual sugar had matured into a